Blowing Out RV Water Lines: Your No-Nonsense Guide to Winterizing with Air
Alright, let's talk winterizing your RV. It's that time of year, or maybe you're just storing your rig for a bit, and the thought of freezing pipes probably sends a shiver down your spine – and not just from the cold! Dealing with busted pipes, a cracked water pump, or a damaged water heater because of neglected winterization is a nightmare. Trust me, it's a headache you absolutely want to avoid. That's where blowing out RV water lines comes in, and it's a fantastic, often preferred, method to protect your beloved home-on-wheels from the harsh realities of ice expansion.
You see, water expands when it freezes, and your RV's delicate plumbing system, with all its plastic lines and fittings, just isn't built to handle that kind of pressure. One cold snap, and poof, you could be looking at thousands of dollars in repairs come springtime. Blowing out your water lines uses compressed air to force virtually all the water out of your pipes, faucets, and fixtures, leaving them bone-dry and safe from Jack Frost's destructive power. It's less messy than antifreeze, often quicker, and for many RVers, it's the go-to technique.
Why Bother Blowing Out Your RV Water Lines? The Ice Monster Cometh!
Let's be blunt: if you live anywhere that sees freezing temperatures, even for a night or two, you have to get the water out of your RV's plumbing. It's non-negotiable. Imagine heading out for your first spring trip, excited for warm showers and fresh coffee, only to discover a geyser erupting from under your sink or a cracked toilet bowl. Talk about a buzzkill!
The damage caused by frozen water can be extensive and insidious. It's not just the obvious things like PEX lines bursting. We're talking about expensive components like your water pump, hot water heater, individual faucets, toilet valves, and even your city water inlet – all susceptible to splitting open. Replacing these items isn't just costly; it's also a massive time sink, cutting into your precious camping season.
By taking the time to properly blow out your water lines, you're essentially buying yourself peace of mind. You can sleep soundly knowing your investment is safe, and you'll be ready to hit the road the moment warm weather returns without any unwelcome surprises. Plus, for those of us who aren't keen on running gallons of pink RV antifreeze through our entire system, blowing out the lines is an excellent primary method, often followed by just a splash of antifreeze in the P-traps for good measure.
What You'll Need for the Job: Your Winterizing Toolkit
Before you dive in, let's gather your arsenal. You don't need a ton of fancy gear, but a few key items are absolutely essential:
- An Air Compressor: You don't need a giant industrial unit. A small, portable "pancake" style compressor, the kind you might use for car tires or nailing projects, is usually perfect. The key is that it can deliver consistent air pressure.
- An RV Blow-Out Plug Adapter: This is non-negotiable. It's a small brass fitting with a female garden hose thread on one end (which screws into your RV's city water inlet) and a standard air compressor quick-connect fitting on the other. You can find these at any RV supply store or online for cheap. Don't try to jury-rig something – this is important for a secure seal.
- Hose or Nozzle for Compressor (Optional but Handy): Sometimes the air compressor's main hose is too bulky for tight spots. A smaller, flexible hose or a nozzle attachment can make directing air into specific areas easier.
- A Wrench or Pliers: For opening low-point drains or potentially removing the anode rod from your water heater (more on that later).
- Eye Protection: Seriously, don't skip this! There's a chance of water or debris kicking back, and your eyeballs are precious.
- A Small Bucket: For catching any residual water from drains.
The Step-by-Step Lowdown: How to Blow Out Your RV Water Lines Like a Pro
Okay, gear ready? Let's get down to business. This isn't rocket science, but it does require a systematic approach. Take your time, and don't rush through it!
Step 1: Drain Everything You Can First
Before you even think about connecting that air compressor, you want to get as much water out of the system as possible the old-fashioned way.
- Bypass Your Water Heater: This is crucial. Locate your water heater bypass valves, usually found on the backside of the heater inside your RV. There are typically two valves on the hot and cold lines leading into the heater, and one on the bypass line itself. You want to close the lines into the heater and open the bypass line. This prevents air (or antifreeze) from filling up your water heater tank.
- Drain the Water Heater: Once bypassed, open the pressure relief valve on the outside of your water heater (often a small lever) and remove the drain plug or anode rod. Let all the water gush out. Be careful, it might be hot! Once drained, leave the drain plug out or the anode rod removed for storage (it allows for ventilation).
- Drain the Fresh Water Tank: Find your fresh water tank drain valve, usually underneath your RV. Open it up and let the tank empty completely.
- Open Low-Point Drains: Your RV will have separate hot and cold low-point drains. These are typically small valves underneath your rig designed to drain the lowest parts of your plumbing system. Open them up and let the water flow until it stops. Once drained, close them for now.
- Empty Holding Tanks: This is a good time to make sure your black and grey holding tanks are also empty and clean.
Step 2: Connect Your Air Compressor
Now it's time to introduce the air.
- Set Compressor Pressure: Crucially important! Set your air compressor's regulator to between 25-40 PSI (pounds per square inch). Do NOT exceed 50 PSI, as this can damage your RV's delicate plumbing system. RV plumbing isn't built for home-level water pressure.
- Connect the Blow-Out Plug: Screw your RV blow-out plug adapter into your RV's city water inlet (where you'd normally connect a hose at a campground). Make sure it's snug.
- Connect Compressor to Plug: Attach your air compressor's hose to the quick-connect fitting on the blow-out plug.
Step 3: Go Through the Fixtures, One by One
With the air connected and pressure set, you'll now systematically open each water fixture in your RV to force out any remaining water. Remember to go one at a time.
- Start Farthest Away: Begin with the faucet that's usually furthest from your city water inlet, which is often the bathroom sink or shower.
- Bathroom Sink: Turn on the hot water first. Let it run until you see only air sputtering out – no more water. Then, turn off the hot and turn on the cold water, letting it run until only air comes out. Close the faucet.
- Shower/Bathtub: Repeat the process. Hot until air, then cold until air. Don't forget the handheld shower wand if you have one. If your shower has a "trickle" button, make sure to open the valve and then cycle that button to get water out of the wand itself.
- Toilet: Flush the toilet a few times until you see only air bubbling up in the bowl.
- Kitchen Sink: Move to the kitchen. Hot until air, then cold until air.
- Outdoor Shower: If you have one, open both hot and cold valves until only air comes out.
- Ice Maker Line (If Applicable): If your fridge has an ice maker or water dispenser, follow its specific instructions for winterizing. This usually involves flushing the line until air comes out.
- Black Tank Flush (If Applicable): If your RV has a black tank flush connection, briefly connect your air compressor to that specific inlet (using a separate adapter if needed) and let air run through it for a few seconds.
- Re-Open Low-Point Drains (Briefly): After going through all your fixtures, briefly open your low-point drains again (both hot and cold) to ensure any last drops have been pushed out. Close them afterward.
Step 4: Don't Forget the Water Heater Bypass (and Anodes!)
Just a quick reminder: confirm your water heater is still bypassed. If you removed your anode rod (which you should do), you can leave it out until spring, but consider putting a screen over the hole to prevent pests. This also allows the tank to dry out completely.
Step 5: Double-Check and Repeat (If Necessary)
It's a good idea to release the air pressure, wait 10-15 minutes, and then re-pressurize the system and go through all the fixtures again. Sometimes, water pockets can settle, and a second round will push them out. You might be surprised how much more water comes out the second time!
Step 6: Final Touches for Complete Peace of Mind
- Relieve Pressure: Once you're confident all the water is out, disconnect your air compressor and blow-out plug. It's a good practice to leave one or two faucets (maybe the kitchen and bathroom) slightly cracked open, or leave the low-point drains open. This ensures any minuscule remaining water can drip out and that no pressure builds up in the system due to temperature fluctuations.
- P-Traps and Toilet Bowl: Even after blowing out the lines, the P-traps under your sinks and shower, and the water in your toilet bowl, will still contain water. This is where a small amount of RV antifreeze comes in handy. Pour about a cup down each drain (sink, shower) and into the toilet bowl (flush it to get it into the valve too). This prevents the standing water from freezing and cracking those components.
A Few Critical Tips & Tricks
- Don't Over-Pressurize! I can't stress this enough. RV plumbing is not residential plumbing. Stick to 25-40 PSI.
- Bypass the Water Heater! Seriously, you don't want to fill that tank with air only to have a huge volume of water still sitting in it, or worse, fill it with antifreeze. You'd need gallons of antifreeze, and it's totally unnecessary.
- Take Your Time. Rushing through this process is how you miss a faucet or a section of pipe, leading to potential damage.
- Consider a Hybrid Approach. Many RVers blow out their lines first and then, as a belt-and-suspender measure, pump a small amount of antifreeze through the system to ensure every nook and cranny is protected. This is particularly useful if you're worried about particularly harsh winters.
- Washer/Dryer Combo? If your RV has a washing machine, consult its manual for specific winterization instructions. Those can be tricky!
Ready for Winter, Ready for Adventure!
And there you have it! Blowing out your RV water lines might seem like a daunting task at first, but it's a relatively straightforward process that anyone can master. By following these steps, you'll ensure your RV's plumbing system is safe and sound, ready to weather the coldest months. Come springtime, you won't have to worry about costly repairs and can instead focus on what really matters: hitting the open road and making new memories. Happy (and safe) winterizing!